One of the great things about retirement is being able to take advantage of an unexpected good weather window and take off for a couple of days. This is particularly exciting for us, as because of my job as a teacher, we have always had to take our breaks during the school holidays, when places are busy.
With the promise of one such weather window, we headed up to the Lake District towards Ullswater, just an hour and a half up the M6. We arrived at 'The Quiet Site' just after 11am and immediately set off, planning to walk to Glenridden via Aira Force Falls, catch the steamer back along the lake to Pooley Bridge and then complete the loop back on the Ullswater Way finishing back at our campsite in time for a barbecue before falling into bed.
Setting off from the site on a narrow road, after just 5 minutes we reached the path, just north of Watermillock Church. The path left the road to join a track through the woods of Swinburn Park, one of five medieval deer parks surrounding Ullswater, and due to the elevation of the path, we were immediately presented with beautiful views of the lake and surrounding countryside. Alongside the path the yellow spring blooms of the gorse bushes led the way and new tree plantations could be seen on some of the lower land.
A wide, even path took us through woodland, where the branches of the trees, not yet hidden by their leafy summer apparrel, were covered in a thick, green mossy coat, and several streams crossed our way, water tumbling over the rocks as the water worked its way down from the hills towards lower ground and the lake.
Leaving the woods, we followed the path left taking the fork that shouldered Gowbarrow, opening up spectacular views of the length of Ullswater, the clouds throwing their shadows onto the lower hills on the opposite side of the lake, and the rising mountains beyond Glenridden could be seen, including Helvellyn which will be tomorrow's challenge.
Once out of the woods, the surrounding land became sparse, with only last year's browning fern and heather lining the path. A short diversion up to a rocky outcrop gave us the best views yet before the path turned narrower, almost levada-like, as we made our way down to Aira Force Falls.
Arguably the most famous and spectacular waterfall in the Lake District, Aira Force was landscaped in the late 1700's, planted with both native and ornamental trees and used as a pleasure garden. The arboretum, at the base of the falls was planted later, in 1846, with over 200 specimen conifers from all over the world and is now one of the best places in the Lake District to see red squirrels, although we were unlucky and didn't see any on our visit.
Descending from Gowbarrow, we exited the path to join the 2km circular loop through the gardens and up to the waterfall. It was certainly a worthwhile diversion as the path, with it's stone steps, took us through the gardens and up to the first viewing point. Here, 1km before the water enters the lake, the beck falls 20metres as a forceful torrent down towards the lower bridge where the full force of the falls can be experienced. Today, sadly, due to a fallen tree, the lower bridge was closed but that did not take away any of the spectacle.
Continuing upwards, we reached the upper bridge, a spectacular stone arch bridge spanning the 65 foot waterfall, and behind the bridge, before the beck narrows, there were beautiful rock pools where we stopped to eat our lunch and enjoy the pretty glades and burbling river befor descending on the opposite side of the falls and making our way back to the Ullswater Way.
We followed the path past the cafe and carpark and were greeted by 'a host of golden daffodils' the same as those which inspired Wordsworth's most famous poem.
From Aira Force an even path wound it way through Glencoyne Deer Park past grazing land where newborn lambs were frollicking and chasing each other in the sunshine. At Glencoyne, the path made its way down and across the road to continue beside the lake where there were a web of paths to explore, and plenty of stopping points to stop and enjoy the spectacular views across the lake and beyond.
At the tiny village of Glenridding we made our way to the steamer pier and bought tickets for the 1 hour journey to Pooley Bridge, and as the steamer picked up speed, a cold wind reminded us it was still only April; I was glad that I had packed my hat and gloves.
After a hot cup of coffee in Pooley Bridge, we quickly rejoined the Ullswater Way which now made its way, quite steeply at first, through woodland and then across farmland through fields of cattle: we weren't at all sure that the cattle were friendly and quickly noticed that there were several young bulls in the field who seemed very interested in us. Despite their initial curiosity, the cattle soon got bored with us and allowed us to make our way across the fields towards Maiden Castle, it's ancient ruins now hidden by grass, where we stopped for a moment to turn and enjoy the spectacular views westward down the Ullswater Valley and eastward towards the Pennines.
The Way then continued on to Bennethead and then on quiet roads to Watermillock Church where we joined it several hours earlier. A short walk up the hill, the road returned us to our campsite where we enjoyed a well-earned drink in the bar, and we refueled as we watched the sunset.
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