We headed up to the Dales on a dry cold January day, after seeing this walk showcased online. It promised views of Ingleborough and Pen-y-ghent, as well as experiencing the expansive limestone pavements of Thieves Moss, within the dramatic scenery of the North Yorkshire Dales, in a circular walk taking around three and a half hours, long enough for a cold winter's day.
We parked by the church in the centre of Clapham village, taking a short climb up a walled lane.
Before long, we encountered two dark, unpaved tunnels, which gave me a sense of déjà vu, before emerging onto a rough track leading steeply uphill through a managed woodland.
At a fork in the pathway, we went left following the aptly named Long Lane and rising steadily for about a mile. We passed the entrance to the Ingleborough Caves, below on our left, and stopped frequently to turn and admire the views behind us.
Ahead, we could see that the tops of the hills were shrouded in mist, and crossed our fingers that they would clear in time for those promised views.
At the end of the lane, we ignored a stile and path leading to Trow Gill, instead turning left at the gate and heading towards Long Scar.
So far, the route was well signposted and easy to follow, with wide grassy paths dissecting the longer grasses of open moorland, where sheep were happy to ignore us in favour of grazing.
We headed up to a huge cairn, easily spotted in the barren landscape.
This was the viewpoint for Ingleborough, Little Ingleborough and Pen-y-ghent, but we were out of luck, the mist having descended further, throwing a veil over everything but the closest views.
Not to be put off, we continued and set off in the direction of Moughton Scars, hoping to see Thieves Moss, an unusual expanse of flat limestone
Avoiding pot holes and shake holes, common in this area, we continued to follow the grassy track and soon the limestone pavements of Thieves Moss and Moughton Scars came into view, the path pulling in alongside a wall, over which we had an even better view.
We reached a small gate in the wall, and passed through it, a rocky track leading steeply down onto the flat limestone. We should have been able to see Pen-y-ghent and even Pendle Hill in the distance from here, but it was not to be today.
It is believed that Thieves Moss got its name as it was once used as a showground for the sale of stolen livestock in the area.
The limestone pavement itself was formed over many years by glaciers, which on their retreat revealed a flat limestone landscape. Over the years, water and chemical weathering have created, widened and deepened cracks to form fissures known as Grykes, and the exposed blocks of limestone left behind are called Clints. We had to be careful with our footing when walking through the limestone, as it was very slippery in places, especially when it was wet.
We made our way across the limestone pavement, the path becoming less obvious at this point. We followed several sheep trails by mistake, before picking it up again and following the trail through Moughton Scars and downhill until we reached Beggars Stile, a deceptive stile with 3 steps up and six down on the other side.
From here we headed across Crummack Dale, passing a farm and joining the Dales Way for half a mile or so. We passed over another stone stile, this one built into the wall, and followed the footpath sign to Norber along the side of the wall.
The footpath passed through Nappa Scars, across a field and over a stone stile, arriving at Norber where many unusual erratics can be found.
Erratics are huge boulders that have been transported by glaciers, and their addition to the previously stark landscape is quite otherworldly,
We picked our way through the boulderfield, arriving at a four-way signpost that, from a distance, looked like a cross. From here, you can head up the hill and explore the Norber Erratics further, before returning to continue on the path towards Proctors Scar.
At the end of the wall, we walked across the field and then crossed a stile to find ourselves back on the Pennine Bridleway. Turning west, we followed the track, which undulated its way back to the intersection with Long Lane. We followed it left, back down through the tunnels and past St James Church back into Clapham, where we enjoyed a well-earned drink next to the log burner in The Old Manor House Inn.
As we chatted, unpicking the walk as we do, I mentioned my 'déjà vu' moment walking through the tunnels as we headed out of Clapham. We figured out that they were the same tunnels we cycled through over a decade ago when we completed 'The Way of the Roses' from Morecombe to Bridlington over three days. A strange coincidence.
We then follow walled lanes back down into Clapham
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