Taking advantage of our new found freedom, Tony and I set out for a couple of days camping during an unseasonably warm September. It was our first taste of the spontaneity that being free from work brings, and felt liberating.
On an impulse, we headed up to the Yorkshire Dales, past Skipton and Grassington and into Upper Wharfdale. We quickly set up camp in the pretty village of Kettlewell before setting out on an easy valley circular taking us through the curiously named village of Starbotton and back. The route took us along the valley, through pastureland and along the riverbank, dappled sunlight dancing through the canopy onto the water, and giving insight into some of the domestic and wild life along the way; trout sitting silently in the deeper pools with water boatmen skating above them, two deer grazing among the fern and skittering away as we passed, fields full of sheep eyeing us cautiously and scampering away when we got too close, and a riverside field of stubborn cattle, affronted that we should presume access to their space. They were so stubborn in fact that we decided to take a diversion through a higher field in order to prevent upsetting them further.
As we approached Starbotton, the map indicated that the path would cross the river which by now had widened considerably. However, as we approached the footbridge, it became apparent that access across was denied. Boards and tape and a crude message pinned to the fence informed us that the bridge was closed for repair as it had been damaged by floodwater. We could have just returned the way we had come of course, but it seemed much more fun to figure out a way across the river. Closer inspection showed that, although wide, the river at this point was not deep and there were lots of rocks forming a crude, if slippery, route across. Gingerly, we moved from moss covered rock through the shallows eventually reaching the pebbled bank on the other side. A further scramble over drystone walls brought us back to the path triumphant – a successful venture.
We skirted Starbotton and climbed a little to return higher along the valley on the other side, this path giving us views across the fields. The narrow path followed the contours of the hillside through small copses and over stiles until we descended back into Kettlewell for a welcome drink at the Bluebell Inn.
The next day brought a clear blue sky and after breakfast we set out on a longer walk, over the hills and into the next valley, Littondale. The route would take us over Old Cote Moor, down to Arncliffe and then down the valley following the River Skirfare downstream to Hawkswick before ascending over Hawkswick Moor via Knife Scar back into Upper Wharfdale. We set out following the same path as yesterday, but almost immediately took a sharp left heading up the hillside. A sharp ascent followed along a steep and narrow path and the valley fell away quickly beneath us.
By the time we reached the top of the crevice through Gate Cote Scar, a short but steep and rocky climb, our lungs and leg muscles had certainly had a rude awakening and we paused for a welcome breather the gaze around at the spectacular views. As far as the eye could see, rolling hills in every shade of green making a patchwork with woodland and drystone walls and the river snaking along the valley floor as far as the eye could see in both directions. Above us, the climb continued although not as steeply. We made our way up to Middle Moor, the path wide and grassy now and easier under foot. Progress was slow but steady and still hard work, as rise upon rise presented itself, fooling us into thinking we were at the top time after time, until at last a wall and stile presented us with the ridge top and plateau beyond.
Almost immediately, the path began to descend into Littondale, and the grassy moorland gave way to chalky outcrops, lilac heather and emerald ferns as far as the eye could see. After a fairly gentle descent we reached Byre Bank Wood. The path now wound steeply carving a gash into the hillside and twisting around rocks and boulders through the woodland requiring careful footwork and the use of both hands. Emerging from the wood, the path continued to wind down across fields into the picturesque village of Arncliffe. After a welcome drink at the only pub in the village we returned to the path to continue following the path along the banks of the River Skirfare downstream to Hawkswick. This stretch of the walk was easy which was just as well as the temperature was unusually hot for September. The river meandered through the fields, sometimes cutting deep into the landscape, the path following above giving us a clear view of brown trout lazily languishing in in the deeper pools and minnows darting in the shallows.
We crossed the river as we approached Hawkswick, following the road through the village and then taking the path upwards towards Knipe Scar which would take us back into Wharfdale. The long steady climb was unwelcome in the hot afternoon sunshine and we stopped often to rest and take in the views. Slowly we ascended back onto Old Cote Moor, eventually reaching a plateau and a stile. On the other side was a choice of three paths; we took the middle one with fingers crossed. The path took us down though Knipes Wood and eventually followed alongside the road back into Kettlewell.
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