The small settlement of Vézelay is a beautiful village which can be seen from miles away because of its imposing position out along the crest of a hill, with far-reaching views over the 'Monts de Morvan'. It was established in the 9th century as a Benedictine abbey but the church became famous in the mid-11th century when the belief spread that it held the relics of St Mary Magdalene and it became a place of pilgrimage, all the more popular because it was located on one of the roads leading to Santiago de Compostela.
It is also famous for being the place where the three kings ,Richard l of England, Philip ll of France and Frederick l Holy Roman Emperor, met to begin the Third Crusade, also known as the King's Crusade, in an attempt to reconquer the Holy Empire in the late 12th century.
Today, it is the site of the Basilica of Sainte-Marie-Madeleine, one of the finest and most complete examples of Burgundian Romanesque architecture and art in a romanesque church, and a UNESCO world heritage site.
Its exterior (which has just been restored), gleams in the sunlight showing off its romanesque arches and sculptures.
Inside, The central vaulted nave has large horseshoe arches, and capitals, each of which is unique in style and subject. But it is the sculpted portal showing the "Mission of the Apostles" which people come to see, as it is a theme which is quite unique in Romanesque art.
I think what impressed me most was the overall impression given by the space; the way its romanesque and gothic features blended seamlessly; it was so bright inside the church, a contrast to some which are dark; and despite the lauded architecture and art, it did not appear over adorned, but instead made a simple bold statement.
The village of Vézelay, is more or less one long, steep street that rises up to the Basilica at the top of the hill.
Many of the houses along the main street are now cafes, galleries and gift shops but it still manages to maintain its character.
There are also a few narrow winding streets leading off the main street, hemmed in by ancient houses featuring many examples of the local architecture, and parts of the original village ramparts that still surround Vezelay.
We cycled to Vézelay today, a sort of pilgrimage of our own through 20 miles of beautiful undulating Burgundy countryside. Not an easy journey, but then I don't suppose any pilgrimages are. It was worth it though, well worth a visit.
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