Distance travelled today: 15 miles
day 8: Veigadaña to Arcade
Everybody should walk at least one camino in their life. Yes everyone! - and the younger the better, like a kind of national service. I can't believe it has taken us this long to get round to it - we have been talking about it for the last ten years!
I don't say this because its easy (it isnt) or because its hard, which goes without saying, but because it teaches you (or reminds you) about what is important in life; kindness, helping each other, perseverance, perspective, patience, resilience...
It is wonderful to engage with people, young and old, of all nationalities and faiths; to know that they will almost certainly help or support you if you need a chat, a blister plaster or indeed, anything else.
These are people who love and respect the countryside; there is no litter or damage anywhere, and albergue dormitories are left as they are found. People living side by side, despite their everyday differences; enjoying each other's company and being the best versions of themselves.
I havent quite come to the point of epiphany, but walking for six hours a day does give you a lot of thinking time, and has allowed me to draw a few early conclusions. In fact, more than a few; I am begining to see that walking a camino is a bit like living a life compressed into a fortnight.
There are the same highs and lows, the same range of emotions felt and plenty of physical obstacles to overcome. Some parts are better than others; some night's you go to bed feeling that you won't be able to face another walk tomorrow, and then the next morning, inexplicably, life seems full of possibility.
Today we walked from Veigadaña to Arcade, about another 20km and taking our camino total to about 170km - an incredible achievement!
We walked out of town, about a kilometre through the old winding streets, before turning left onto the Camino de Esteiro where the trail became more rural.
We have noticed a large increase in the number of people walking since leaving Tui testerday, and today there seems to be almost a queue lining the narrow dirt path. However, as we continue the throng thins out and we regain our space, walking first through vineyards and then beneath trees and up through the forest, with beautiful views of the valley.
We stopped at a roadside cafe bar for breakfast, sharing a delicious tortilla, then continued uphill along roads and pathways. past an old fountain and picnic area, and a little later, a stone wall where there is a tribute to pilgrim's.
We paused to admire the mementos on display, then continued, this time steeply downhill, the first hill of the day conquered.
Further along the trail, we stopped for a drink and some 'complementary' tapas in Redondela, before tackling the second hill, ascending this time through the eucalyptus trees.
We almost took a wrong turn at a new marker, but after deliberation with some other pelegrinos, we continued along the track and reached the peak of the hill to be rewarded by our first view of the coast since Porto; a grand view of the Ria de Vigo.
From here we had another steep descent down a dirt path passing a fountain on the right with a sculpture of a pilgrim family in front of it.
From this point, we had to walk along the busy N-550 highway into Arcade which wasn't very pleasant. Reaching a fork in the road, we took a right, passing another pilgrim tribute, before arriving at our albergue for the night.
Another good day on our journey of self-discovery.
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