Distance travelled today: 18 miles on foot
Day 5: Ponte de Lima to Rubiães
If you had told me 24 hours ago that I would have walked again today, I wouldn't have believed you. Last night I was exhausted; everything ached and my feet felt like they had been run over by a truck.
But after a couple of hours flat on my back, and an honest review of the situation over a lovely meal at a little tapas restaurant we found in Ponte de Lima, we had a decent night's sleep, accepting that today may need to be a rest day.
So this morning we packed our things and found somewhere for breakfast. After perusing the map, weather forecast and Buen Camino app, Tony said to me, "I think we should walk today."
So we did. We recrossed the medieval bridge and followed the yellow arrows.
It's really important when walking with a partner, or in a group, that a certain etiquette is followed: the slowest person should set the pace; a rest should be taken when anyone needs one; and you should have a range of endpoints planned so that you can stop for the night when the first person signals 'enough'. There is no judgement; we all have our own pace, level of fitness and stamina and everyone is respected.
With this in mind, we planned to complete the next leg to Rubiães, with several options for an early finish.
The route was varied, at first winding through villages and then through fields along the ever-present cobbled paths. As we left the valley, and began to climb, we entered the forest: luscious greenery, rushing rivers and some spectacular, tumbling waterfalls.
This was our terrain - mountain trails and winding dirt paths - even a boggy stretch to make us feel at home. Before long, as promised, the path began to climb. We had a steep ascent followed by an equally steep descent before us, and it looked tough.
Refueling at a roadside cafe, we adjusted our packs and footwear and topped up our water bottles.
The climb began steeply and just kept getting steeper. For four kilometres we scrambled over rocks and boulders, passing memorial peregrino waymarkers; familiar stone crosses adorned with messages, mementos and camino memorabilia.
As I climbed, I found myself chanting the familiar verses of 'The Gruffalo' in rhythm to the movement of my feet - over and over again - until finally, we arrived at the top. Thank you JD!
Then the descent (I really would rather go uphill than down).
A similar distance but less steep, feet slipping on sandy pebble paths, until at last we reached the foot of the hill.
From there it was an easy walk into the village of Rubiães, where we registered at the Albergue and enjoyed a delicious 'pilgrims plate' at a local restaurant down the road.
I felt a real sense of achievement today, after last night's low point. Maybe we can do this after all!
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