Distance travelled today: 19 miles on foot
Day 4: Portela de Tamel to Ponte de Lima
Today was hot; really hot - muito quente! Not only was it hot, but we were aware that the route would take us through largely unshaded countryside, so there would be no escape from the heat of the sun - and there were very few refreshment points marked on the map.
Add to that our ailing feet and our status as caminho novices, it's fair to say that we felt quite daunted. So, with some trepidation, we plastered and strapped our feet, filled our water bottles, donned suncream and hats, and set off on the next stage of our journey.
An hour later and it was 25°. We stopped for breakfast at a roadside cafe, joining half a dozen other 'Peregrinos' who had taken respite from the heat. The topic of conversation (after introductions) was riveting: footware, sore feet and blister remedies - we all contributed.
An hour later, fed and watered, it was 28° and we all set off, soon spreading out along the trail at our own paces.
Despite our sore feet and the unforgiving cobbled paths, our breath was taken away by the stunning scenery along the way; a picturesque backdrop of distant mountains, trees and agricultural land, interspersed with traditional stone cottages.
We wandered along at a leisurely pace, enjoying walking between the vines, looking at the great diversity of wildflowers and enjoying the sound of birdsong.
We even came across a large lizard showing off its beautiful colours, and a nanny goat with her three newborn kids, both willing to pose for photos.
With 5 or 6 miles left, we were flagging, so, hot and tired, we made our way towards the only remaining cafe en route. Just before we arrived, we came across a beautiful old olive tree, adorned with camino tokens and good wishes for pilgrims...
...there was also a shady bench with an invitation to rest, complete with a jar of sweets to boost the passing weary travellers - it was quite wonderful.
Six 'very tough' miles later, we met the river, on our final approach towards Ponte de Lima, a very pretty town with a spectacular medieval bridge spanning the River.
I think a snail could have crossed that bridge faster than I did today, and I cannot begin to describe how tired I was; it was certainly a relief to arrive at the Albergue on the other side of the river.
A couple of hours later, and somewhat rested and repaired, we reflected on our journey so far; its tough - tougher than we could have imagined, and yet somehow today, through all the discomfort, I know that my enduring memories will be of the people we met, conversations had and the sights and sounds we encountered along the way.
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