Distance travelled today:
15 miles on foot
Day 2: Vairão to Pedra Furada
If yesterday was defined by 'yellow arrows', then today has been defined by cobble stones: cobbled roads, cobbled pavements, interrupted only by the occasional stretch of dusty footpath littered with rocks and stones - behaving just like cobbles.
Now cobbles may look pretty, but there is a reason why Edgar Hooley invented tarmac in the early 20th century - they have a terrible impact on vehicular suspension systems, and they are 'very' unkind to feet, so imagine how it must have felt driving a horse and carriage over them.
Before setting off, I deliberated long and hard about which shoes to wear on this trip. I have been wearing my boots all winter and spring and they fit like a glove. However, I was aware that it would be warmer and drier in Portugal, and that my walking shoes would probably keep my feet a bit cooler. Nevertheless, after a couple of trial walks in my Merrells, I finally decided to stick with my walking boots; after all, they had seen me through the last 6 months.
Now, after 2 days of cobbles, I'm not so sure. My feet are comfortable enough, but I am beginning to collect blisters like badges of honour - thank goodness for Compede!
After saying all that, and being a bit of a Moaning Minnie, it really was quite a delightful walk. We left the monastary behind and continued on the trail, passing through beautiful woodland - heady with the scent of pine and eucalyptus, passing over a couple of ancient bridges, and visiting the romanesque church in Sao Pedro de Rates.
We were serenaded by birdsong the whole way, and even managed to catch sight of a Corn Bunting and a pair of Eurasian Spotted Fly-catchers, as well as butterflies, dragonflies and frogs.
After a Pilgrim's Plate at a local cafe (juice, toasted sandwich and coffee for just €5), we continued along the undulating cobbled lanes, passing through farming communities and small hamlets, until we reached the Albergue in Pedra Furada.
By this time we were both impeded by blisters, and feeling bullied by cobblestones, so we surrendered; we had not reached Barcelos, but had got further than we had anticipated this morning.
Tomorrow is another day.
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