Into March, and we set out for an impromptu visit to Richmondshire in North Yorkshire.
The weather chilly but dry and the forecast good, we travelled with a degree of optimism, to explore Richmond and Swaledale and to climb the reknowned Fremington Edge, with its fabulous views over the River Swale and the villages of Grinton and Reeth.
We started to the East, in Richmond, parking at the foot of its old town in the shadow of the castle.
Nestled into a kink in the Swale - not quite an oxbow, this is the location of the Richmond Falls, where torrents of water rush around the bend of the river to cascade down a series of rocky steps, as if eager to exit the Dales and continue south into the Vale of Mowbray.
The historic town itself is on top of the hill and boasts a rich history dating back to the 11th century.
Overlooking the huge cobbled market square is the castle which dominates the skyline; the views from the top of the impressive keep draw your eyes west between the folding hills of Swaledale, and then east towards the vast acres of the Vale of York.
After wandering Richmond's pretty streets, we continued, following the course of the River Swale into the Swaledale Valley, whose tranquil, heather-covered hills were once home to a thriving leadmining industry. The industry was a major source of employment for local people, and when it collapsed in the late nineteenth century, up to half the population of the dale left.
The area is now more famous for its hardy sheep, locally-made cheeses and, not least, its great walks.
We were staying just outside the pretty village of Grinton at the youth hostel. A former hunting lodge, it was built in 1817 and was privately owned until after World War II, when it was sold to the YHA and has been used as a youth hostel ever since.
The hostel is a great base; only half a mile from Grinton village and with lots of great walks from the doorstep.
The next morning, we settled on a walk taking in Fremington Edge and the village of Reeth.
We walked down the road from the hostel, into the village and across the road bridge over the Swale. Turning right, we walked alongside the river for a while, enjoying the birdsong and babble of the water, before climbing the banks and crossing the road.
Through a gate, and following the 'coast to coast' signs, we headed uphill through woodland, walking along a steep, paved path, made mossy and slippery by the recent rainfall.
Leaving the woods, we passed the remains of Merrick Priory - now an outdoor activity centre, and into the hamlet of Merrick. Turning sharply left, we walked uphill onto Marrick Moor, where we were heckled by several pairs of grouse as we passed their nesting grounds.
Up here, the already cold day was chilled even further by an easterly wind that was, thankfully, at our back. Maintaining our pace to keep warm, we crossed a road and continued upwards towards Fremlington Edge, an impressive escarpment towering above Reeth.
The main path runs behind the drystone wall, which hides the best of the views, but if you are brave, there is a more spectacular and thrilling route along the edge, providing wonderful views down into, and along the valley, in both directions.
We passed a large cairn marking the highest point of the 'Edge', and the remains of the lead mines on the moors beyond, and then took a narrow path, zigzagging steeply down, first across the scree, then through fields and meadows, before depositing us in the valley with great views looking back up to the escarpment.
From here, we followed the river to the road bridge and crossed to the village of Reeth, with its village green and market, art and craft shops, pubs and cafés - a central point in Swaledale.
Back on the road, we recrossed the bridge heading back towards Grinton, a footpath taking us off the road and beside the river once again. It was only a short walk back to The Bridge Inn with its local ales and log fires; the perfect place to rest and refuel.
Before we left, we could not resist a visit to the village’s most famous building, St Andrew’s Church, which is often referred to as ‘The Cathedral of the Dales’ because it was the main church for the entire Upper Swaledale region during the Middle Ages.
The church’s font and arch tower still remain from an older Norman church that stood on the site, and other parts still exist from the 13th and 14th centuries, but most of the building is dated from the 15th century.
Standing beside the churchyard is Blackburn Hall, a beautiful grade 2 listed, 17th century manor house which is said to sit on the site of an even earlier dwelling that was used by Augustinian canons from Bridlington Priory.
At the western end of Swaledale, the Tan Hill Inn boasts of being the highest pub in England, but sadly we didn't have time to pay it a visit today.
Never mind, it is just one of many reasons to pay another visit to lovely Swaledale some time soon.
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