The Sao Lourenco peninsula is at the easternmost tip of Madeira, and the PR8, which runs the length of it, begins at the Baia d'Abra and finishes just beyond the Casa do Sardinha named after the family who originally lived there; it is now a Ranger Station and very welcome refreshment point when you have completed the first half of the walk, especially if you make the final extra climb up almost 350 steps to the final viewpoint which has views stretching out to the Desertas Islands and far beyond. Locally known as the Vereda da Ponta do Sao Lourenco, or 'the lizard's tail', it is a really popular out and back hike with a number of stunning viewpoints, which highlight the volcanic erosion over millions of years throughout the coastline. It is probably the most commercial, and therefore busy, walk we have done during our stay, but still worth it to get those views.
We set off from the carpark down a set of stairs and over a bridge. If you complete the walk to the very end there are about 1100 steps each way, plus a lot more up and down on the path, so be warned!
We continue along a gravel track and are immediately struck by the almost desert landscape, no plants or animals and totally different from anywhere else on the island. The ground is rocky and covered in sand and it feels more like being on the moon than Madeira. Almost immediately we are confronted by amazing rock formations of yellow, gold, orange and many shades of red. The landscape is huge and photographs can't give you the same feeling as actually being there and taking in the magnificent scenery. Either side of the burnt orange rock formations are spectacular views of the rugged coastline; cliffs dropping sharply into the deep blue sea with turquoise waves crashing at their foot.
The trail continues up and down stone and wooden steps before becoming a narrow path. At this point the ground underfoot is very rocky and uneven with natural steps, wrapping closely around the hill. It is quite tricky at points and can get windy but it always felt safe. The last part of the hike is flat and winds down to a low plateau where there is a cafe and the only trees you will see, making it look a little bit like an oasis in the desert.
We continued beyond the end of the trail to climb Pico do Furado and claim the best views of all. At this point we can see the dark blue rougher seas of the North on one side and the calmer turquoise seas of the South back along the coast. The Desertas Islands are clearly visible in front of us and because it is a clear day we can just about see Porto Santo in the distance. The end of the path is the highest point, the ground tumbling away in front of us, where a break in the rock means that the tip of the 'dragon’s tail' cannot be accessed. We can go no further. We return down to the plateau carefully, making good use of the railings as the steps are irregular and very uneven with surface sand making progress difficult, before making our way back along the trail enjoying the views in reverse.
Apart from the final trek to and from Pico do Furado, this is not a difficult walk, but it is tiring due to the constant ups and downs and also because there is no shade from the sun, making it probably the hottest walk we did, and we did it at the end of October.
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