Yesterday, full of optimism, we walked the high valley path from Parsley Barn to Whalley, setting off under a blue sky that was soon replaced by hanging mist and a constant drizzle. So is the way of the weather in Pendle, changeable and damp, especially in October. We got the bus back!
So today, faced with another blue sky, we had a decision to make. Optimism won out and we decided to walk up Pendle Hill then down to Downham; if the mists come down, at least there is a return bus via Clitheroe.
We left the house, walking up the bridleway, past Badgerwells Cottages and into the fields. When we reached the signpost, we crossed the path and continued directly uphill, following a narrow track across the mossy foothills, until we reached the main path at the top. This is the quickest ascent from Sabden, but did leave us breathing hard, so we stopped to catch our breath, taking in the views back down south to the village.
Turning right, we continued uphill, a more gradual and undulating ascent, muddy after the heavy rainfall of the last couple of weeks. Stopping again above Mearley Moor, we enjoyed views north, beyond Clitheroe to Sykes Fell, and west towards the Lancashire coast.
We entered Ogden Clough, my favourite part of the hill, its deep ravine rising from Barley's reservoirs and its brook full, glistening in the sunlight and surging down over the rocks.
The weather had surprised us and now we were down to a single layer, the breeze light and the sun warm on our backs as we made our way along the stone pathway to the summit.
At the trig point on the Big End, the view stretched across the plain from the Forest of Bowland, to the Yorkshire Dales in a broad expanse of uninterrupted beautiful countryside; there can't be many places with as stunning a view.
Turning left, we followed the wide path along the 'End' until we reached a gate, and a a signpost. We headed towards Downham, down a steep and slippery singletrail path which soon plunged us into the shadows, the chill air forcing us to replace a layer of clothing. The sharp descent soon brought us to fields, heavy with the runoff from the higher fells. We squelched across them, boots thankfully doing their job, and crossed the road to enter a copse. Again, the way was signposted, if overgrown, and took us across farmland into Downham, possibly the prettiest of Pendle's villages, quiet and unspoiled with its gurgling beck running beneath an old stone bridge.
We checked the bus timetable over a drink at the Assheton Arms, only to find that we had just missed one and the next was not due for over an hour. What bad luck!
Our choices: we could get another drink and wait for the next bus; we could walk another mile or so into Chatburn where there would possibly be more buses into Clitheroe; or we could walk back to Sabden, a walk not far short of the one we had already completed, but avoiding the bulk of the Big End of Pendle Hill.
Of course, we decided to carry on walking, having assessed that we just about had enough daylight left.
We walked back down through the village, this time crossing the bridge and heading towards Worston, along Quiet Lane.
Compared to the outward journey, the return walk, along footpaths passing Little Mearly Hall and Lane Side Farm, was easy, passing through fields of cows and sheep and following the contours of the hill.
Just past Mearley Hall, we took a footpath through a broken gate, uphill towards Pendleton Moor. We have walked this way before, and it is beautiful, the route passing an old ruined stone farm building before entering a small wooded creek. The path takes you over the stream across a rickety wooden bridge, past Howarth Barn and then picks its way across moorland, following narrow sheep trails and making its way up to Wellsprings, with its lovely views over the Ribble Valley. We briefly enjoyed the sunset, glowing pink over Longridge Fell, before rejoining the path to take us over the Nic of Pendle and back down to Sabden, just as we were losing the light.
We just about made it back before darkness fell, returning home to a welcome log fire and supper, to rest our weary feet, having walked twice as far as we had planned.
Ah well, best laid plans eh. At least the weather held, a glorious blue sky all afternoon, and it didn't rain I count that as a success.
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