Setting of from the campsite at Wasdale Head, we parked the car at Greendale and set off along the path towards the south ridge of Greendale Gill. I had only just recovered from our Sandstone Trail walk a week earlier and my feet, especially my left little toe, were still tender and carefully bound in preparation.
The path climbed relentlessly from the beginning, although it did give us stunning views along the valley towards Ling Mell, Scafell and Scafell Pike. Across Greendale Gill, to our left, we could see the steep face of Buckbarrow across the valley, and to the right the steep screes of Illgill Head above Wastwater. We continued, the path levelling out until it met the south ridge and then curving away to ascend again up towards Greendale Tarn. Stopping to catch our breath, from here we could see the fine ravines of Tongues Gills where waterfalls can usually be seen although sadly today they were dry, and as we got higher the calm, black waters of Wastwaster became visible beneath the towering Whin Rigg.
It had felt like a tough steep climb, longer already than the 1.5miles expected to reach the summit. The ridge broadened and the path became fainter and more difficult to follow. We headed towards a group of rock tors and had to retrace our steps a couple of times as we lost the path, but eventually the summit cairn of Middle Fell came into sight bringing with it views of Great End, Broad Crag and the Scafells beyond Whin Rigg. By now we also had a clear view of our planned route over to Seatallan and Buckbarrow via a deep valley. We realised that we would have to go a long way down only to rise again to another peak before descending Buckbarrow back down to Greendale, and after consulting the map, and taking into consideration the time and the weather, we decided to shorten our walk. We descended to the tarn in the valley and then turned sharply to follow the stream around the base of Middle Fell. The descent was tricky as the path was no wider than a sheep trail, completely disappearing at points and crossing slippery rocks.
A steep ascent followed by an even steeper and tricky descent made me realise that, after a long walk last weekend, we had been a little ambitious in our current plans – and glad that we had decided not to continue with the longer walk via Buckbarrow. It is important to realise that when walking the fells of The Lake District, getting from A to B can take a lot longer than you think they will, as paths can be steep and winding and the terrain is often hard on the feet, ankles and lungs. Always better to be safe than to push the limits of the time and weather. There is always a next time.
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