We have only had a few days in our perfect cottage this time, just a few days tagged onto the end of a very busy schedule in Middle Europe. But what a perfect place to sit back and relax, resting our busy feet after the miles of walking and slowing our busy minds after such a wealth of stimulation; time to recall, consider and digest the wonderful things we have seen and places we have visited.
And as I sat, resting, in our perfect mountain retreat, watching the weather come in and blow out again - clouds, sun, mist, sun again - and being content on the beautiful north side of the island, it got me thinking: we are lucky to spend weeks and weeks here in Sao Vicente, exploring at our leisure, revisiting our favourite spots, knowing where to find the sun when the mist rolls in, but what would a perfect two days look like? What if someone only had two days to discover the north?
Most people who visit Madeira stay on the south of the island, the majority in and around Funchal. Most people never discover the majesty of the North with its crashing waves, towering cliffs, lush greenery and magnificent scenery. They don't venture up into the mountains to see the Laurissilva forests, waterfalls and levadas. They don't explore the vast expanse of the Paul da Serra finding out what its like to be above the clouds - on top of the world.
This is what I would do if I only had two days, my perfect agenda:
Starting in Sao Vicente, I would take the Rosario road up to Encumeada to see the clouds rolling over the pass like a giant waterfall. I would continue up onto the Paul da Serra, pausing at the viewpoints to gaze at the clouds beneath and the ocean beyond, before making my way to Fanal to visit its magical Forest, 1150metres above sea level, where you can find a mysterious fog creating an incredible atmosphere amongst the ancient Til trees, their gnarled branches and the mists coming together in an enchanting fairytale scene. Just 100metres from the road you will become immersed in the magic of the forest, enjoying the twisted trees, mystic fog and magical scenery without going on a big trek.
From here I would drive down into Porto Moniz, maybe have a late lunch at the natural pools, and maybe have a swim, tempted in by the black lava rock, turquoise water and the crashing waves.
I would drive along the spectacular northern coastline, through Seixal and Sao Vicente, through tunnels, beneath towering cliffs, until I reached Boaventura. Here I would take a hike from Sao Cristovao, taking the cliff path where I would be high above the ocean with maybe a view of Porto Santo on a clear day, until I reached Sao Jorge, where I could pause for a drink and enjoy the views before the return walk back.
Back in Sao Vicente, I would feast on Bolo do Caco, shrimps in garlic and Vinho Verde, before returning to my perfect cottage to enjoy the sunset and stars.
The next morning I would sit a while, enjoy the sun and the views before walking down to Sao Vicente via the Levada do Cardais. I would pause in the village for a coffee and Pastais de Nata and then continue down to the seafront to watch the waterfall pouring in a torrent above the road and listen to the waves crashing on the beach. Lunch would be Picado, then a slow walk back uphill to spend the afternoon reading and feasting on those views. A barbecue would complete my list, stargazing by the campfire as the night draws in.
There are beautiful places in every corner of Madeira, and if you have the time, you should explore it all, the sunny South, the high peaks, the barren yet beautiful Sao Lourenco, and indeed its capital, Funchal - probably my favourite capital city in the world.
But the north of Madeira is special, magical and unspoilt, and should not be missed. So if you have two days, hire a car and take a ride through the longest tunnel on the island - you will not regret it.
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