If you want a touch of adventure without the crowds of Rabaçal, then head to the São Vicente valley and the PR16: Levada Faǰa do Rodriguez.
Travelling from the south, it is accessible from the main road into São Vicente by heading uphill through Freiteiras to Ginǰas. When you can drive no further there is a small car park on the left, and the trail begins another 100m up a rough track.
Even from the car park there are stunning views over the São Vicente valley, from Ginǰas, with views over to Pico Grande to the south, and the São Vicente coastline to the north.
From the beginning of the walk you are plunged into a land of giants; huge eucalyptus trees, giant ferns and a feeling that you are a thousand miles from civilizatiion.
Before long you find yourself immersed in the ancient Laurissilva forest, unique to the island. It is a verdant, tranquil paradise with only the sound of your footsteps and the birdsong high above you, and a long way above, the towering mountains and a cerulean sky - just visible through the shifting canopy.
It would appear impossible, but it does get better, as a waterfall thunders from high above, crashing down into a crystal clear pool at your feet. All along the route are weeping walls of moss and ferns, and waterfalls small and large to draw your eye in wonder.
The path continues, the dense foliage captivating, and the trail meandering in and out of the chasms of the mountainside.
On one side the levada flows lazily; home to brown trout lazing in the slipstream of a lone rock or flitting between the rocks and the shadows; on the other side of the levada path is a disarmingly steep drop, plunging into whatever is far below; you can't see it, but it's a long way down.
The last of the open views looks over to the Barbusano vineyards and São Vicente's prominent clock tower, with a tantalising glimpse of the sea beyond.
From here, you dive deeper into the interior, only accessible through a series of tunnels - not for anyone who dislikes the dark or enclosed spaces.
There are four tunnels, leading eventually to Madre da levada in Ribeira do Inferno, which is where you can explore the canyon. The first two tunnels are short, and allow you to adjust to the humidity and darkness (don't forget your torch). The third and final tunnel is much longer, taking around half an hour to pass through; it is quite narrow, and the rocky ceiling is low at points; the levada path, although always passable, can also be quite narrow and there are few real passing points. All of these features can make it feel uncomfortable and a little claustrophobic, so be warned.
The canyon, however, is well worth the journey with tumbling waterfalls and seeping mossy walls - the only view out is the sky.
It is worth taking some time to admire the natural beauty and magnificence of the place before turning around and retracing your steps through the tunnels and back to reality.
It would be easy to avoid 'out and back' trails, imagining that you are doing the same walk twice. However, the views always look different from a different angle, and many features are worth a second look.
One of the nicest, and quietest, walks on the island, and literally just across the valley; we are truly blessed x
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