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Gordale Scar and Malham Cove: February 2024

Let's face it; when you are planning a walking trip to the Yorkshire Dales, you have plenty of choice, and in the absence of any other criteria to narrow it down, you could end up with a very long list of options and an almost impossible choice to make.


We wanted a nice walk, combined with an overnight stay, before the next bout of bad weather set in, as forecast, so our search began with accommodation. We finally settled on a nice little inn, just outside Grassington, with access to a spa and a hearty looking menu, both of which would be very welcome after a cold, winter walk. The price was right so we booked it, and then we only had to find a nice walk, not a difficult task in such a beautiful part of the country.


We finally settled on a 12 mile circular loop, starting at Malham Moor, just outside Threshfield, and taking in Gordale Scar, Malham Cove and Malham Tarn.



It was clear February day with blue skies and a chill seasonal breeze, and so, wrapped up warmly, we set off on a narrow road which quickly became awell worn undulating track towards Bordley, with nothing in our line of vision but moorland, hills and sky.

As we followed the rise and fall of the land, we passed Bordley Green Farm and climbed Kealcup Hill, before crossing some boggy land and descending through Cow Gill Cote to join Smearbottoms Lane, whose name led to a lively debate about its possibile origins.


As we approached Gordale Scar, the natural gorge gradually came into view, rising like a cathedral inside the hillside. It is referred to in the Yorkshire Dales official guide as 'one of the jewels in the crown' of the Dales, and it is clear to see why.



Walking along the path, the Gordale Beck led us deeper into the ravine, whose steep rocky walls appeared to loom over us as they narrowed, finally depositing us at the Scar, where torrents of glacial meltwater, over several ice ages, have sliced through the limestone allowing the beck to cascade over in two separate waterfalls, from an impressive height above.

We had thought that we could cross the beck at this point and continue up the ravine and onto the Moor. But as we got nearer, it became apparent that the force of the water was too strong and the 'tufa' (soft mossy limestone rocks) too smooth and slippery, to make this possible.



Instead, we retraced our steps back along the footpath, exiting the gorge and crossing the river at the bridge, to follow the Dales Highway, a footpath leading up over Shorkley Hill to Malham Cove.


The Cove, another of the Dales jewels, is a huge curved limestone feature, towering at about eighty metres in height and topped by unusual giant pavestones. This time though, we viewed its spectacle from above, where we could appreciate its scale, and where we could clearly see its vertical rock face and the steps leading down to Malham village.



Leaving the Dales Highway, we returned to a fork in the trail and followed a different footpath, over Trougate and Torlerly Edge, just catching a glimpse of Malham Tarn before turning right to leave the moorland and walk along the road.


The return leg of the walk took us over Street Gate to recross the Gordale Beck, before it cascades over the Scar and into the ravine.



We then walked over the rather bleak 'Mastiles', through the almost invisible remains of a first century Roman marching camp, to descend back down onto Malham Moor, where we had started from four and a half hours earlier.


Returning to the Inn in the dimming light, we were rewarded at the spa with a bubbling jacuzzi to sooth our aching legs, and in the restaurant with a rather excellent pie from the 'specials' menu.

We were also persuaded to take part in the weekly pub quiz! We gave it a go, but I think the walk must have worn us out.

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