I mentioned the cleanliness of the streets and towns in a previous entry and this really is a feature of Madeira wherever you go. Civic pride ensures that this a high priority on the island and everywhere you go people can be seen cleaning and tending the public areas. Once, on a previous visit, we visited Funchal for New Year’s Eve, watching the world famous firework display at the harbour along with thousands of others including a dozen cruise ships that had anchored offshore to enjoy the spectacle. By 1am everyone was on their way back home, completely satisfied with their evening, and the street cleaners were already busy, brushing and hosing away any evidence left behind.
It is our wedding anniversary at the end of September, and to celebrate this year we spent the weekend in Funchal. Due to Covid-19 restrictions earlier in the year, the flower and wine festivals have been combined and celebrations are to be held over the first two weeks in October with a full programme of events planned. We arrive on the Saturday and nothing much is going on, although we can see that preparations are in hand. We decide to spend the afternoon and evening wandering around the old town, along the seafront and enjoying some of the flower displays in the parks and streets. Later in the evening we eat at a small restaurant opposite the market; the best meal we have ever had on the island - we both agree, sharing a succulent chateaubriand served with potatoes garnished with bacon, a béarnaise sauce and coleslaw salad. Afterwards an island speciality, their passion fruit pudding, and a 'chinesa', a strong but milky coffee best served with a little sugar. The rest of the evening we are happy to spend in the garden of the Hostal FX Pena with a bottle of wine, enjoying the balmy evening high above the city among the 'quintas' and the banana trees.
We often stay in a Hostal when we stay over in Funchal; cheap but fully equipped and always spotlessly clean, they are a convenient way to enjoy a cheap overnight stay and enjoy city life in the evenings without worrying about who will be driving home.
The next day, Sunday, we emerge rested and showered to search out a coffee bar. From here we sit for an hour with coffee and 'pastel da nata' another Portuguese speciality, watching the world go by and catching up on the news.
Today, the entertainment was enhanced by a strange incident. Imagine, if you can, a very well-spoken couple sat on the table next to us. The woman, who has a glass of white wine, even though it is only 10.30am, is speaking in hushed tones to her husband, who seems agitated. The waitress appears to collect their plates then walks away. She immediately returns and asks where 'the other plate' is. The woman replied, "Oh, I took it inside."
Challenged by the waitress, the woman immediately became repentant, using a child-like pleading tone; "Oh I'm so sorry, can you forgive me? It was just so pretty, I'm a naughty, naughty girl, I promise I won't do it again." At which point the man, whom I presume was her long suffering husband started almost shouting at her saying, "I told you to ask the lady. Now look what you have done. I told you it was wrong, you have to stop doing this!"
The woman retrieved the plate in question from her handbag, apologising further in her little girl, simpering voice and the man stood up and stormed away. I wish I had the words to describe the expression on the face of the waitress as the woman, pleading for forgiveness, even offering her money for the plate, backed away and out of the cafe - it was a picture.
A further couple of hours, maybe more, is spent strolling around the back streets and along the seafront next to the harbour where we finally settle, this time uneventfully, with a drink at the CR7 bar.
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