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  • dianeneilson

Force of Nature, North Yorkshire: 28/08/2023

With the promise of a 'dry' late summer bank holiday, we set off to seek out some of the magical places of the North Yorkshire Dales.

Leaving the Ribble Valley, itself designated an area of outstading national beauty, and heading north, we also soon left behind Lancashire, crossing the border into Yorkshire towards Settle and on to the small village of Stainforth.


From the carpark, we followed the signpost for Catrigg Force, whose secluded setting is said to have been one of Elgar’s favourite places, and one where he drew the inspiration to compose some of his most famous works.


Catrigg Force


The walk to Catrigg Force takes you from the village along a rocky track, rising steeply between dry stone walls and rolling green hills - classic Yorkshire Dales scenery. The path to the waterfall leaves the main track, turning sharply through a gate and descending into a little patch of woodland.

The waterfall is hidden from view, accessed from a winding, narrow path which takes you downhill and deposits you at the foot of the falls.

Catrigg Force is incredible; a double drop cascade with towering gorge walls that give it a wild and mysterious feel. The main waterfall has a vertical drop of about six metres into a lovely pool, before dropping again down another set of rapids beyond the undergrowth.

After enjoying the spectacle awhile, we climbed the path to admire the drop from above and then continued back to the track and over Winskill Stones where we enjoyed beautiful views across the Pennines and across to Ingleborough. Dropping down towards Langcliffe, we then made our way down to the River Ribble, following it back towards Stainforth. After half an hour or so, enjoying the leisurely amble, crossing fields and navigating stiles with the river to our right, we arrived at Stainforth Force, a very different but equally impressive force of nature, surging under the bridge and cascading down the rocky gully to create a deep pool, where people were enjoying the sunshine, before further cascading and slowing to the more leisurely stretch we had walked along earlier.


Stainforth Force


Not being brave enough to join the swimmers, we continued over the old stone bridge and up the narrow lane back into Stainforth, enjoying a drink at the Craven Heifer before continuing our adventure.


Back in the car, we headed back through Settle and joined the main road towards Ingleton, taking a small road towards Thornton in Lonsdale, and then an even smaller road, past Thornton Force and into Kingsdale Valley on the western edge of the Dales.

One of the quieter dales, Kingsdale is home to Yordas Cave which is situated about half way along the length of the valley, below the summit of Gragareth.

Hidden in a small, deep gully, the cave can be accessed by passing through a wooden gate and crossing a small field to a second gate, which you also pass through. From here the entrance to the cave is clearly visible, down a couple of stone steps on the left of the path.


Kingsdale was carved out by a glacier leaving steep sides of limestone and there are many caves in the valley; Yordas Cave was formerly a victorian curiosity and show cave, and some say the cave was named after a Nordic giant while others say the name is derived from the Norse 'Jord ass' which means 'earth stream'.


The entrance to Yordas cave consists of a stone archway with steps leading directly to the main chamber which has a stream running through it.


Yorda's Cave


The main chamber is huge! - approximately fifty metres wide, fifteen metres deep and fifteen metres high, and there are three small passages leaving to the right and to the left. It is pitch black inside the cave and torches are essestial (phone torch won't do); it is also wet so boots or wellies are needed, and after heavy rain, if the chamber is flooded, it is not advisable to enter at all.


Hidden behind the rock wall to the far right of the cave, is a smaller chamber the Chapter House, that contains a superb waterfall. It is not immediately visible, although the sound of the water draws you in the right direction, but once you reach the wall, the fall can be viewed from behind the rock, and it is stunning!



The water tumbles down in the dark to crash into the cave, presumably to cascade further through another underground channel. The noise was deafening and water glistened in the air in the light of my torch: it was quite mesmerising and difficult to drag myself away.

But leave we did, albeit reluctantly, emerging into the misty valley where ther was no sign whatsoever of what lay beneath.


Nearing the end of our Yorkshire adventure, we enjoyed a leisurely drive back over the Trough of Bowland, taking a particularly scenic route from Caton, through Quernmore and then following the Clitheroe Road beneath Abbeystead and Dunkenshaw Fells. We enjoyed the purple heather of the moors and passed through beautiful hanging valleys, rising through the picturesque chasm of Sykes Nab before descending down through the picturesque villages of Sykes, Dunsop Bridge and Whitewell, and making a detour to Waddington for a hearty supper at the Waddington Arms.


Its been great day, and we will definitely be returning to Ingleborough to explore more of the 'Forces', and also to Sykes to explore the beautiful Trough of Bowland.

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