I have been visiting this gorgeous valley on the North of Madeira for eight years now and it's beauty, tranquility and majesty never fail to astonish me.
Over that time, I have learned so much about what this area has to offer, from the obvious to the hidden gems; so many people just pass through on a jeep or coach tour, and only touch the surface - a glimpse of the Laurissilva Forest, lunch at the Quebremar, the Lava Caves - then they are off to the next place along the coast.
There is so much to see and do in São Vicente and along it's shoreline, that you could stay for a fortnight and not see it all. Of course , beauty is in the eye of the beholder, and 'amazing' is highly subjective, but I have never met a person who has visited this place and not loved it: awed by it's splendour laid out like a feast for the eyes as you exit the 3km Encumaeda Tunnel from the south; mesmerised by the wisps of cloud that hangs beneath a perfect blue sky; stunned by the scale of the mountains that encircle you and tower above with their cloaks of emerald green; enchanted by the waterfalls that tumble unexpectedly from dizzying heights; and eventually, as you reach the coastline, lulled into a trance-like state by the crashing aquamarine waves pounding the black volcanic rock, it's echo reverberating on the rugged mountainous cliffs behind you.
Often when we visit, we don't leave São Vicente; it has everything we need, from the practical, to the awe-inspiring, to the spiritual.
Awe-inspiring, I think I have covered.
Practically, there are a couple of supermarkets and a few other shops in the village and on the seafront; there are lots of restaurants to suit anybody's taste, including the aforementioned Quebramar, the acclaimed Caravela and the Churrascaria Brasa Viva - an authentic barbecue restaurant popular with the locals.
On the seafront, there is an amazing bakery called Padaria do Calhau, which sells the most wonderful cakes and breads - a great place to have breakfast or a coffee, or to pick up a nice teatime treat.
There is also a health centre, a church and many more cafés, as well as a vineyard, lava caves (grutas), the sea-water swimming pools at Seixal and some amazing coastal and mountain walks.
But I believe that São Vicente really comes into its own, not because of the amenities it has or its amazing location, but that it is unique in the way that it makes me feel.
From my very first visit, back in 2016, I felt spiritually 'lifted', at one with nature and 'at home'. There are many elements contributing to this feeling - the smell of eucalyptus in the air, the constant joyful sound of birdsong, the peace and quiet, the early morning mist, the predictable hourly chime of the church bells and the overall simplicity of life here.
I could live here happily.
If Madeira is my spiritual home then Saõ Vicente is my church and nature is my religion.
Amen.
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