After the most amazing flight over Pico Island, we arrived on Faial. We planned to catch one of the 'regular' buses into Horta, but soon realised that they are not so regular and ended up having to phone for a taxi as the taxi rank had been depleted. Slightly annoying, but just goes to show that you need to do your homework if you want things to go smoothly.
Arriving in Horta (meaning orchard, possibly because one of its early exports was oranges), it quickly became apparent that life in this small city centres around it's old port and newer marina, in which some fairly impressive yachts were moored.
Horta's marina is a primary stop for yachts crossing the Atlantic Ocean, and its walls and walkways are covered with colourful paintings created by visitors showing the names of their vessels, crews, and the years they visited. We spent an hour or so browsing this artwork and then another sat at the marina cafe enjoying the view of the yachts and boats.
Just across from the marina, is Peter's Cafe Sport, a somewhat legendary bar that also houses the island's scrimshaw museum, a collection of artifacts carved from whale tooth and jawbone. Peter's is a reknowned hub for transatlantic yachters and sailors, and has become a huge tourist attraction; it was certainly very busy every time we passed, night or day.
Car-less by choice, we took another taxi to take us to the most western point of the island, Capelo, to visit the Capelinhos volcano site and its underground visitor centre. This is where, 66 years ago, a submarinal volcano erupted (a process that lasted 14 months between 1955 and 1956), the result being the destruction of a community, many of whom fled the island. Another consequence was the creation of an additional 2.5km² of eerie uninhabited land mass created by the solidification of lava remaining above sea level, its black, arid volcanic ash creating a stark contrast with the neighbouring lush green fields.
It is not difficult to imagine the titanic forces involved in the eruption, and the fact that it happened within living memory is quite a sobering thought.
A very different, yet similarly volcanic experience, is a hike up Monte Guia, a beautiful, protected area of approximately 74 hectares consisting of two volcanic cones – Monte da Guia and Monte Queimado. The completely natural landscape is made up of craters, lava slopes, sea-cliffs, bays, inlets, pebbles and black sandy beaches. Off shore there are rocky reefs and sea caves which are home to rare marine fish, and on its slopes grow species of flora that are of particular interest due to their rarity.
The walk starts at the Whaling Museum, and is mostly on a new road that zig-zags up the hillside giving views of Horta, it's bays and the hills beyond. As you change direction, the views shift, this time showing off the beach below and the landscape to the west all the way to Capelinhos. When you reach the top there is an incredible view down to two open sea craters...
... and if you climb the stairs to the Capela, a trail behind it extends along the peninsula giving glorious open sea views - we even spotted whales in the distance.
The more I see of the Azores, the more I am finding that each of the island's, although similar, have their own unique qualities and features. Faial, and in particular Horta, has been welcoming visitors for centuries, because of its strategic position in the Atlantic, and has a real buzz about it In the evenings you can find lively bars with good food and live music, and enjoy a caipirinha or three; there are also the inevitable ocean-going tourist boats in search of whales and dolphins, but it doesn't feel 'touristy' and it's certainly not crowded - even in mid July.
We have only had a couple of days here and have not explored widely as we haven't had our own transport. But as we sail away on the Pico ferry, I look back with real fondness and know that we will be back to see more.
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