Today we are visiting Porto Santo, for a couple of days of sand, sea and sunshine; to walk along the perfect golden beach and feel the sand between our toes, and to swim in its healing, aquamarine waters - a sojourn; a little escape; a holiday whilst on holiday.
Porto Santo is an atlantic oasis.
Lying just 70 km north-east of Madeira, it is accessible by flight or by ferry, the two and a half hour ferry ride being the cheaper and more scenic option.
In fact, Porto Santo is part of the municipality of Madeira, being its smallest inhabited island, but is very different and has its own unique qualities, not least it's 'healing sands'.
Like Madeira, the Porto Santo landscape was formed following successive volcanic eruptions, revealing a stunning 9 km long golden sandy beach along the south shore, with a dramatic backdrop of barren lava flows, volcanic peaks and deep ravines.
The north shore is home to dramatic cliff-faces, islets and stunning sea views - an uninterrupted seascape for hundreds of miles: it's geology is so unique that the whole island has been recognised as a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve.
Inhabited for over six hundred years, the island inevitably has a rich historical and cultural heritage, and it's people have been the victims of many sea battles, particularly during the era of maritime expansion in the middle ages. Eventually, the islands of Madeira and Porto Santo, along with the nine isles of the Azores, became part of Portugal's treasure trove when the rights to the Atlantic Archipelago's were finally agreed, with the Canary Islands going to Spain. This is all explained far more articulately, and in much greater detail, at the Christopher Columbus museum in Vila Baleira, which provides a wealth of information and artefacts describing the island's complex history, as well as explaining the role played by Columbus himself, who had strong ties with the island.
The main town (indeed the only town), Vila Baleira, its streets lined with palm trees and bougainvillea, is a hub for the many bars and restaurants, and gives easy access to the beach. Its narrow streets are also home to many quaint holiday rentals, which are our preference over the busy hotels. For the second time, we are staying at 'Number 16', a small apartment in a traditional house, with a beautiful courtyard garden, perfect for evening drinks and stargazing - I can highly recommend it.
The centre of town is also where you can find the bus stop, which is where we begin our first day, catching the local bus to Ponta Da Calheta. It costs less than two euros, and 15 minutes later deposits us at Praia Da Calheta, separated by a narrow channel from the foreboding Ilhéu da Cal, marked by jagged cliffs and sheer escarpments and inhabited only by birds.
Beside the beach is the charmingly situated Restaurante O Calhetas, where we settled ourselves to while away the next couple of hours in the shade, enjoying fish and rice stew (a speciality), a couple of drinks and the amazing views.
Then began the long walk back, 9 km of uninterrupted golden sand with the waves lapping at our feet whilst we enjoyed the views of the sea to our right, the spectacular stretch of beach in front of us, and the volcanic landscape to our left.
Every so often, as we neared a hotel or bar, the beach would become more populated, but for long stretches it was quiet with only a few people walking it's length, as we were.
A couple of hours later, we arrived back at Vila Baleira to enjoy the sunset from La Siesta, a small beach bar and restaurant hidden away beyond the pier
The next day, after some consideration, we repeated the same walk, this time stopping off at a couple of the beach bars for refreshment along the way. Why not? There are worse ways to spend a day.
On our return ferry, we were treated to incredible views, both back to Porto Santo and ahead to Madeira, the first receding amid a startling blue sky, the latter looming ahead and shrouded in mist - it's high peaks clearly visible above the low cloud...
...and sailing into the harbour at sunset seemed the perfect ending to a perfect weekend.
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