A clear day up on the Paul de Serra is a gift, as it means that you can see the stunning scenery for miles. It is not a given though, at any time of year; the weather lower down can be glorious but the higher ground shrouded in mist and vice versa. Today we leave a sunny day in Sao Vicente and head towards Fanal. We are lucky as it is clear on top too, though several degrees colder. We are planning to walk the PR13 Vereda do Fanal, starting at the Fanal Forest Post and looping back along the road for the last 5km (if you prefer, and can get a lift back to Fanal, you can continue to Paul de Serra where the trail ends).
Along the way several viewpoints reveal a set of beautiful landscapes, highlighting the view over the valley of Ribeira da Janela, the Chão da Ribeira, and across to Rabacal.
We make our way up through the ancient and imposing 'Til' forest. Some of these trees have been here since the discovery of the island and their twisted and knarled trunks and branches seem to reach out to one another in a surreal sort of dance; the scene is made even more eerie by the mists that drift in and out of the trees, where one moment they are standing resplendent against the backdrop of the bright blue sky and the next moment they have completely disappeared, hidden by the thick fog. I think they look the best when the mists are drifting in and out and the trees are mysterious shadows within them, but all of these scenarios are played out within minutes and over and over throughout the day, it is enchanting to watch.
We emerge from the Til Forest onto a plateau where the path widens and chaffinches approach us fearlessly, taking crumbs of bread from our hands. We are treated to open views down to the north coast at Seixal and breath-taking green landscapes in the valley below. Following the trail, we walk amongst heather and gorse that dwarfs us, and are surrounded by ferns that seem to glow golden in the autumn sunshine.
There are parts where the path is open, offering us the opportunity to appreciate the grandeur and magnificence of the landscape. Other parts of the trail are closed and covered up by the magnificent and lush vegetation of Laurissilva forest, delighting us with its freshness and abundance. Here the trail is twisty and uneven with rocks and tree roots threatening to trip us. The dense foliage appears ancient and is covered in thick green moss and lichens; streams trickle in gullies and humidity is high. It feels as though we are in a fairy tale setting, and for the next two hours we encounter undulating terrain with regular climbs and descents among lush vegetation.
As we ascend back up to the road, the mists are drifting across our path before drifting out again just as quickly to leave blue skies and sunshine, but as we walk back along the deserted road there is a definite chill in the air forcing us to put our jackets back on. We arrive back at the deserted carpark at Fanal as the mists drop and clouds envelop the ancient Til trees once more and as if to confirm the dreamlike setting, a bride in full wedding gown appears in front of us and disappears again into the mist.
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